A Slower-Paced Christmas in Cantabria
If you’re used to Christmas kicking off sometime around Hallowe’en, Cantabria might take you by surprise. Here, Christmas arrives slowly — gently — almost shyly. In our village, the Christmas lights were only being put up this week, never mind switched on. There’s no frenzy, no pressure to have everything perfect by December 24th. And honestly? It’s refreshing.
Part of this calmer rhythm comes from the way Christmas is celebrated in Spain. Christmas Eve (Nochebuena) is the main family gathering, a long dinner full of tradition and togetherness. But Santa Claus is not the star of the show. In fact, for many people he’s a relatively recent arrival — and some still see him as an unwelcome symbol of US-style commercialism.
New Year’s Eve (Nochevieja) is also a family affair. People gather at home for a late dinner, waiting for the famous moment when the clock strikes midnight and everyone eats las 12 uvas — twelve grapes for twelve strokes of the clock, said to bring good luck for the year ahead. After that, the night belongs to the young (and the young at heart!) who head out for parties that stretch well into the morning.
In Cantabria, January 1st comes with its own twist: a chilly but exhilarating dip in the sea. Yes, really! For many locals, it’s the perfect way to start the year.
But don’t think the celebrations end there — not even close. Everything ramps up again as the region prepares for Los Reyes Magos (Three Kings’ Day) on January 6th. This is when Spanish children traditionally receive their presents, and the excitement builds with parades in every town and city. Madrid’s parade is even broadcast on national television, but the small local ones are often the most charming.
After many years in Spain, I’ve come to love this slower rhythm. It gives the season space to breathe — and honestly, you need that slower pace when the celebrations last a full two weeks. Christmas here isn’t a sprint. It’s a season, savoured slowly, surrounded by community, family, and plenty of tradition.
